Wednesday, 17. September 2014

Denim – Trends Fall/Winter 2015/2016

  • Preview by trend expert Louisa Smith
  • Updated reports at textrends.ispo.com

The return to the traditional roots of denim will provide a plethora of deep indigo colors for fall/winter 15/16. The original look will receive new life with the help of modern and sustainable dye methods, ozone and laser finishes. Add to this worn, washed and used looks combined with classic twill structures, or new knit-style replicas and true knit, imitating traditional denim structures.

New for this season is a lighter quality of denim, a result of innovative spinning techniques. Stretch denim continues to be in high demand. Special treatments, antibacterial denim and combinations of denim and FIR nylon fibers promise function and performance. Emana, the FIR yarn known from the active wear and undergarment segment, provides denim with softer haptic and increased wear comfort. With its Denim Therapy brand, Tavex is one of the first denim manufacturers commercially producing FIR denim.

The Impact of the Active Wear Market; Sustainability Prevails
The active wear market has an impact on denim development. Improved knit denim qualities that imitate the woven styles, are in evidence. In addition, the market presents woven qualities reminiscent of classic interlock knit, with a softer haptic and improved fit. These fabrics mostly target the menswear segment.

Sustainability continues to be a primary topic within the denim industry. After years of excessive water consumption (one pair of cotton jeans required the use of 11,000 liters of water) and uncontrolled application of chemicals, today the industry attempts to make good on the environmental sins of the past. The stylish finishes are a result of ozone washes and laser finishes. Recycled synthetic materials are combined with denim. They reduce material weight without changing the durability of the fabric, but most of all, minimize the number of washes needed for certain looks. Tencel is increasingly added to cotton to create a softer haptic.

Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) Improves Sustainability and Profit
Water and chemicals are not only used in the processing of denim, they are also a part of the cotton harvest. Even though conventional cotton continues to represent a major portion of source material, many manufacturers and brands have joined the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). This not-for-profit organization dedicates itself to better cotton production. BCI works directly with cotton famers and educates them on the latest sustainable technologies, making better harvests without excessive water and pesticide use and increased profits for the farmers possible. Many active wear brands have already joined BCI, among them Nike and adidas.

Laser Finish Decreases Water Use and Replaces Chemicals
Consumers select according to the look of denim. Laser finish continues to establish itself in the industry and is becoming a trend.

Jeanologia is a pioneer in this sector, and uses unique laser systems able to create everything without water and within a few minutes – from simple, small details to aggressive, large-scale designs.

Indigo, the ubiquitous basic tone of denim, continues its dominance as the leading color for this season. However, chemical companies are developing increasingly sustainable methods for the dye process. The Archromas Advanced Denim Yarn Dye Technology makes it possible to reduce water use by up to 92%. In addition, the typical cotton waste may be reduced by 87%, and manufacturers can expect energy cost savings up to 30%.

ISPO TEXTRENDS
ISPO TEXTRENDS presents groundbreaking textile trends up close and in concentration. The special platform by ISPO allows designers, product managers and members of the press to preview and experience the most important developments in the fabric, fiber, patterns and accessories sector for all sports and outdoor textiles. ISPO TEXTRENDS is the opportunity for research, networking and sourcing for the industry.

Applications for für ISPO TEXTRENDS 2015 will be accepted until September 19. For more information on the ISPO Textrends Forum please refer to www.ispo.com/textrends and on Facebook at www.facebook.com/ispomunich.

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